Here I am in the Mekong Delta (and while the hotel in Can Tho is special – Casablanca, any one??) I really have to start back in Saigon…

Yesterday was a heavy day. It brought back a lot of memories from university days, especially my time in graduate studies at the University of Minnesota. We started the day by visiting the Cau Chi Tunnels northwest of the city. These were part of the real successes of the Viet Cong in the greater Saigon area. After wandering through the forests and seeing the various reconstructed settings, it is not surprising that the Americans were somewhat taken aback by them. The labyrinth itself is amazing both in terms of architectural engineering and in geographic layout. And this area was, from the time of the French, quite sympathetic to Ho Chi Minh. This meant that local intelligence was not very helpful to the Americans. The underground munitions labs along with the kitchens and hospitals, made it possible for people to stay concealed for lengthy periods of time. This in turn often gave the impression that the Viet Cong had moved on… Combine this with the fact that some tunnels were dug all the way to a nearby US Base which enabled the VC to gain intelligence themselves on the timing and type of assaults that were being planned by the Americans…the trip ended with a “promotional video” done in the mid/late sixties [60’s] on behalf of the Viet Cong…while it is strictly a propaganda effort, it is useful on two [2] counts — it shows the deep commitment of those fighting for the unification of Vietnam under its own government (one led by Uncle Ho); and, it also demonstrates that we aren’t the only people who can create one-sided stories…

While we did travel past/around another market and visit another temple, we got back into the historical stuff with a visit to the Presidential Palace (which was the site of the final collapse of the government of South Vietnam), and then to the old Post Office (which is under considerable restoration), a magnificent ode to French Architecture (not to mention opulence and class). While we were waiting to get into the great Cathedral we were able to stand on a spot and see the roof top of the building whereupon a US Huey chopper tried to help a number of Vietnamese escape as the city fell. That certainly took me back to 1975 in a big flash of memory.

After spending some time in the Cathedral, we went to the Veterans’/War Artifacts Museum. This is not a place for the faint of heart or for those looking for a complete picture of the war. But it is a necessary stop for anyone involved in any aspect of political life in the sixties [60’s] and early seventies [70’s]. The entire portrayal is from the perspective of the Viet Cong (there is no acknowledgement even that there were soldiers fighting in South Vietnam uniforms). It describes it all as “the US war”…plain and simple!

Now there is a lot that needs to be seen in this museum (and it probably could have taken me four [4] hours to study everything — I only had less than an hour) and first & foremost, anyone who still thinks Agent Orange doesn’t cause significant problems in humans, only needs to see some of the stories here — absolutely horrific. Napalm and phosphorus bombs may not be nice, but they are part of all-out war; Agent Orange was a defoliant and it took more than leaves off trees — it changed food chemistry, it contaminated fields used to grow crops, it polluted water: this is the one aspect of the war that I think raises serious ethical issues for the American command and the USA today would do well even if it gave $10 million to help the citizen-victims cope — most will be dead within the decade, but it would be a humane gesture, especially in light of the decision to compensate US Vets who were affected…

I am not going to go on at length about this museum…if you are interested, raise questions and I will answer them as best I can. But as I strolled through the exhibits, and in particular those relating to the earlier uprising against the French after WW II, I was suddenly reminded of that Pogo-esque statement by Charlie Sheen in “Platoon” — “we fought the enemy, and the enemy was us!” If the American high command had really been doing critical analysis of the French Indo-China problems after WW II, and not been so hell-bent on trying to do in Vietnam what the UN had successfully done in Korea, they might have realized that Ho Chi Minh was a western-educated convert to communism and was not like the North Korean leadership. Now I was never a fan of Ho Chi Minh and I haven’t been converted since coming here, but more on that later. When one looks at the problems that the French had created, almost any government would be better. Moreover, and this may not surprise you, after the Second World War, the French were really in no position to claim to be a military power– I think they were trying to show the world that they could win a battle, by trying to put down Ho Chi Minh. But very quickly they had to rely on the Americans for money & equipment. Why this didn’t make people ask the question — “why bother helping them?” They certainly hadn’t done anything in WW II to help the cause, and their attitudes towards the peoples of Southeast Asia were paternalistic and very un-British-like (they weren’t really supporting self-government at all).

Anyway, I think they sucked the Americans in and then when they finally bailed out, they left a Roman Catholic in charge who didn’t trust Buddhists — this would be akin to putting an Anglo who hated Quebecois in as mayor of Quebec City. Again, perhaps Kennedy felt he needed to support a fellow RC leader, but there were alternatives that likely would have allowed for a more reasonable resolution long before the need for US troops. However, it is quite clear to me that the fact the French needed massive support from the USA was a harbinger that the South Vietnam government would require even more help if it was to survive. It’s Army was not akin to the South Korean soldiers, and as much as there was a greater desire for western-style democracy in the south (along with more capitalistic economic policies), there was no where near the numbers nor the sense of commitment to adequately take on the Viet Cong (who had all kinds of help in the south from a portion of the citizenry + a phenomenal degree of support from China…again, I’ll address this on another day).

Anyway, by the end of the afternoon, I had relived my earlier experiences studying the war, and came away with a much broader understanding of why we got into the conflict in the first place, why it was ill-advised, and how things might have gone differently if we only had known more (especially about the French problems).

The rest of the day was spent quietly walking past Gucci, Versace, Burberry and other stores as well as pausing to admire the Opera House which from the outside looks better than the Orpheum and would fit right in within the confines of Old Montreal. (A great show was playing, except last evening was its night off!! bummer!!)

Today we headed for the Mekong River and other than a stop to view a temple of a rather off-piste religious group which has combined almost all the religious influences (including Christianity) of Vietnam along with seances, and other bizarre practices, we were basically on the water. Reminded me on several occasions of “Apocalypse Now” save for the lack of Huey’s in the air and “the smell of napalm in the morning”. We took a boat down the river and then across to an Island where we transferred to a Sampan — the stability of which was in some question!! Then we went through some canals with the jungle at times coming right down to our heads and at other times, we could see the backyards of old houses — all of whom had they own rickety wharves (or something that might be called that) and beaten-up fishing boats. It was an interesting time being about four [4] cms from the water line!!

I should mention that before getting in the Sampan, we visited a candy factory on the river. this was a hoot: they were even making “puffed rice” and their toffee is exceptional…this was one (1) place where we bought some things…doubt if they’ll make it back to Canada though!!

Then after “sampanning thru’ the jungle (always alert for Martin Sheen and his gunboat) our original boat met us at a junction of two [2] canals and somehow we were able to get back into it without crashing into the water. We went back across the river to another canal and on to another island where we had lunch (again in the forest). It was a leisurely repast, though it was at least eight (8) courses + a couple of beers. Like the Candy Factory, entertainment was provided by the owner of a python who would drape it around a person’s neck for pictures. Since I had little interest in having my last picture show me with a reptilian necklace, so I demurred…

We then got back on the canals, eventually (after a few scrapes of the keel due to low tide) getting into the main river…after crossing it I saw we were coming to a city so I foolishly asked what tbe one (1) big building was… turned out jt was a local market…ST overheard the answer and agreed with the Guide that we should take some extra time and go…

I now know how KEM felt when I would drag her to new car showrooms, assuming she would enjoy it simply because her Dad owned a car dealership…although I must admit once I got there it turned out to be a very interesting experience…it was strictly a local market, so they didn’t really pester anyone and their wares included live snakes, seafood and birds…we did get some spices, fruit and tea…

back in the SUV we drove another hour, including over the newest suspension bridge in Vietnam and into Can Tho… and up through gates to a very colonial French villa. this turned out to be our hotel…more on that later… for now I’m off to sleep…

Tomorrow there is more sailing on the Mekong…
o