Well it has finally happened…I’ve reached that perfect age that the Old Testament prophets first identified as three score years and ten…and it happened in the interesting city of Hue — the ancient capital of Vietnam.
Now for those of you who might wonder why I would pick this city for such a momentous occasion, I need to refresh (or perhaps initiate) your memory. This is the key location associated with the TET Offensive in the Vietnam War — the VietCong actually took control of this city for at least twenty-five [25] days back in the mid-sixties [60’s]. And during my college days of political activity this was not a great moment for those of us hoping for a more democratic victory… Today the city is much different — much more focused on moving forward.
The first [1st] witness to this constructive, positive attitude is the hotel we are staying in — the Eldora! Beautiful hardly describes it — with a definite 19th Century French air but with 21st Century accoutrements. We have a room on the ninth [9th] floor but it seems more like a penthouse…the bathroom is something out of Versailles with a tub that while small for a hephalump is still very luxurious. And the phone actually has a hand-held receiver and a psuedo-rotary dial (but with push buttons).
The pool is on the fourteenth [14th] floor with a lounge above it looking out over the city. AND, it serves Blue Label Johnny Walker by the bottle!!!!! How much better can life get?
Oh, I almost forgot…the drive from Hoi An included a stop at the MySon museum in DaNang. The sculptures that it contains certainly helps add to one’s understanding and appreciation of the incredible site I described early at MySon itself. While the early days of the museum (built my the French before the Second World War) did not have good security, resulting in some of the works being pilfered and ending up in other countries including France, the Vietnam government now has a very strong security system in place and they are establishing a second building to house more of the artifacts. It was a very worthwhile stop and I gained even more appreciation for the Champa era.
After DaNang we drove over the mountain pass that I can’t remember the name at the moment (not having had breakfast yet — my new age is showing signs of old age). The monsoon season has come later this year and so we drove through mists and downpours which changed the experience from wide, sunlit vistas to intriguing moments as waterfalls would suddenly appear out of the clouds and at other occasions the tumultuous sea could be seen below with not much sense of land between us and it. Even the road signs are interesting. If you know the ones we have in North America which go up when a road is being paved and the various lanes are at different heights showing a car tilting, well on the pass the sign shows a car with one set of tires on the road and the other in the ocean. Now you can get the idea of the dropoff at about five hundred [500] metres — somewhat akin to the Skagit Bluffs on the Hope-Princeton Highway #3 in BC!!
Anyway, it was a great trip. At one point, due to road construction on Highway #1 (the main drag from north to south) the driver took a diversionary road through some back country. Water buffalo, brahma cattle, incredible cementeries and rice fields overflowing with water all were in abundance. Also the pace was less hectic as traffic was minimal. We traveled close to the ocean and saw sand dunes that reminded us of PEI.
Arriving in Hue we were taken to a lovely restaurant for lunch. The set menu approaches of our guide we find much appreciated as she really introduces us to some great Vietnamese dishes. This place was no exception. The only drawback — people are allowed to smoke on the patio and with the windows all open there occasionally is driftback…reminds us what we used to take as normal in Canada and thankfully now is banned almost everywhere…
We got to the hotel in mid-afternoon and after unpacking, we went up to the pool area — ST to swim and sauna, me to try out the lounge. Who won? Well I thought I did (see above reference to Blue Label) until ST joined me and found the imbibing to her liking as well!! After an appropriate celebration of the big day we went back to the room to shower and get ready for my birthday dinner which ST & the Guide had arranged at a special restaurant. Just got into the shower when the doorbell rang — the hotel had sent up a small birthday cake!! Nice touch.
We went by can to the evening dinner locale. Drove for about fifteen [15] minutes — cost? about four [$4] bucks including tip… anyway the meal had been arranged and was really good. And as it was about to start, the Guide showed up with a cake with candles (only six [6] because she didn’t believe I was seventy [70], she will get a good tip at the end of her time with us!!!!) and she & ST sang Happy Birthday. The rest of the time there was wonderful, with about seven [7] courses in all (no wine, as it is very expensive here — local beer seems to go better with the food anyway)…
Cab ride back was the same cost…amazing, because the cars are new Toyotas or Hyundais…
Anyway…it’s breakfast time…I’ll talk more about Hue later…